WBOTD 9-6-12 Aegir watch

I have talked to Todd a few times over the last year or two since Mark told me about them. I know Jason_ has had lunch with him awhile back. I have liked the CD-2 for some time now but have really been on the fence on the CD-2 limited edition. The specs for both are well very decent. The movement he uses is the A-10.

http://www.aegirinstruments.com/index.aspx

Ægir Watches CD-1 concept was born in the mid 90's on a quay in Fort William Scotland, on a rainy summer's day, but at the time I never realized it. It stayed in the back of my mind, and it was not until early 2007, that I decided on the design while waiting in the dive bell for the divers to return. And refined the idea over subsequent dives and many long hours of decompression before eventually handing it over to a designer.

I am Todd Caldwell, the founder of Aegir Watches and am a commercial diver working mainly in the offshore Oil and Gas industry in the North Sea. In recent years it was mainly in the bell bounce system employed by Noordhoek Offshore. It was here I came up with the concept diver due to not being able to buy a watch meeting all the criteria that I wanted from a dive watch.

So it started in 2007 and there were some setbacks, including a diving accident on the 21st of June 2008 during a submarine salvage involving a large propeller and myself on the vessel we were diving from, that was supposedly shut down. It added 18 months to the project, but all in all I can't complain as that day ended better than it started.
Originally it was designed as one off project for myself and my diving colleagues and sales were never the motivating factor. In fact, it was not even to be a company. But things evolve and Aegir certainly has, and a company it has become. The project became more ambitious and another model was added, the CD-2.

701M was chosen as the water resistance for all of our models, bringing about some awareness to commercial diving in the process and most of all in homage to the insanely heroic chamber dive of Theo Mavrostomos in 1992 breathing hydreliox, which holds the record for the deepest dive. These depths are not commercially viable and such a dive will not be attempted again, unless it sets out to break the record for records sake, nor is any company set up these days with a system capable to try it.

Aegir watches are German and Swiss made. Every component has been sourced from these two countries, with the occasional exception, such as the handmade in the United Kingdom, Metta Catherina leather straps. We have spared nothing, on making the watches this way and will continue to do so. The first series of limited edition watches will be assembled, regulated and all quality control done in Switzerland. The standard watches will have this done in Germany.
The CD-1

CD-2

Cool looking watches. I would say invite Mr. Caldwell to join here, but I know how company men feel about uncensored, unmoderated, the truth hurts forums.

mrneddles wrote:Cool looking watches. I would say invite Mr. Caldwell to join here, but I know how company men feel about uncensored, unmoderated, the truth hurts forums.

Yep......they seem to have a problem with that truth thing..

mrneddles wrote:Cool looking watches. I would say invite Mr. Caldwell to join here, but I know how company men feel about uncensored, unmoderated, the truth hurts forums.

You do realize I am from Australia right? We dont care about much here to be honest, except beer perhaps.
I have found it hard to be active on forums in the last year, and my post count has dropped off on the two I was active most. I do try to make some posts and be in general discussions, but I have to much on, and answer a ton of emails as well.
Anyway, I am here, so go on, let me have truth!
I can take it, I think..

Welcome, goddamn it! Your watches look nice, but are too goddamn expensive!

Jesus Christ! Another wombat on the boards. Welcome. I have checked out your website and applaud your very purposeful watches, all with sensible case dimensions.

Tell us more about the Soprod movements and the lume treatment of your divers.

The A10 is made by the festina group. There is an article coming out on it on the 10th.

Welcome Todd glad to see you here. I know your stopping production on the cd-2 soon. What is the plan to replace it.

If there is an article coming out on the 10th then that can tell more than I about the Soprod movement. I have put it through its paces for a long time now, since March 2011, and it has taken a lot of knocks, vibration and other abuse.
Not sure what mine runs time wise, as I do not have a tester here and I actually wind my watch, always have every second or third day anyway, part of the experience of mechanical in my opinion. The lume was chosen as it is the second brightest BGW-9C1 and had the tint I liked and White during the day. The appliques are quite thin, so lume is not "in your face" but that was always meant to be the way.
The plan to replace the CD-2 is the SD-1, and this watch will in many ways be very similar, but have a larger dial area, up 2mm on the current 30mm, and be geared towards scuba diving, so having a lumed bezel, and second hand, with an orange outer to the minute hand. Most likely 2mm thinner as well. The price!
Well I see I have failed to either communicate the difference between an Aegir watch, how it is made, where it is made 100%, to my audience.
If the watch is judged on price all the time, then that truly is the case.
The other thing that I ran up against, was the vast majority of forum members in general, want a mechanical watch, that keeps time with the atomic clock, was made from an alloy fond only in a distant Galaxy, built by hand by rolling the metal on the thighs of virgins, all for $500.

It costs me heaps to make it, as there was a run of 50, then 25, and no company working out of Germany or Switzerland shows any love at all with those number

Aegir wrote:The other thing that I ran up against, was the vast majority of forum members in general, want a mechanical watch, that keeps time with the atomicclock, was made froman alloy fond only in a distant Galaxy, built by hand by rolling the metal on the thighs of virgins, all for $500.

They don't HAVE to be virgins, and good-looking bitty will do.

Didn't say you didn't know Soprod, the article is actually more of a help to you it's an interview with Jean-Claude Schwarz. You are one of the first to use it. I have gotten to know the A10 in a Stowa.

Glad to see you have a watch ready in the wings.

Price there is a subject that is a debate. What I feel is 2000 is a lot of money to a lot of people. I also know that is why it has been on my list and off my list for sometime, You are a micro or boutique brand to most people. That can be seen as a plus or minus when spending that much money. In this price range you are in there are all sorts of watches to be had new and pre-owned.

Think you have done a good job of getting people to know the brand, how did I get know it word of mouth.

Forgot this http://www.watchtime.com/wristwatch-industry-news/perrelet-launches-alternance-10-in-house-movement/
and this one came out today http://www.hodinkee.com/the-peripheral-double-rotor-an-in-house-movement-from-perrelet

Ocean wrote:Didn't say you didn't know Soprod, the article is actually more of a help to you it's an interview with Jean-Claude Schwarz. You are one of the first to use it. I have gotten to know the A10 in a Stowa.

Glad to see you have a watch ready in the wings.

Price there is a subject that is a debate. What I feel is 2000 is a lot of money to a lot of people. I also know that is why it has been on my list and off my list for sometime, You are a micro or boutique brand to most people. That can be seen as a plus or minus when spending that much money. In this price range you are in there are all sorts of watches to be had new and pre-owned.

Think you have done a good job of getting people to know the brand, how did I get know it word of mouth.

Well the A10 looked like a better alternative to me, as the finish was just so much nicer than the 2892. At the same time, ETA knocked me back as a direct customer, being far too small.
I looked at my options, and of course there was movement brokers, and while they charged a bit extra, is was close enough to cost price from ETA, given the fact I am only making a few watches here and there at this time. After some thought, I figured that what 2892 finish I provide today, might not be the same tomorrow, as I can only get what the broker has.
I did plan of top grade, so when I place an order, and he only has the standard ones, what then?
Cant charge the same, and cant send out all sorts of different grades. Would be a mess.

So I emailed Soprod and they agreed to deal direct with me, even for a small order.
I also met with them at Basel, and I just liked them! So Soprod it was.
long term aim for Aegir is to make cases in Australia, then in-house. Followed by each and every part.
Will take many years, but that is the goal.

The price is a hard market I will admit. So, then reason is simple, it costs $1300 AUD to make a CD2, give or take $5.
Then there is 30% to the ATO (tax office) then of the rest, is a 2 year warranty that is transferable. This by the way, does not include one cent of operating costs, of any type, it is merely the sum of its parts.
If I was a big outfit with thousands of watches, then the cost would likely be $400 or so per piece. Fact is, I spent close of 200K to make 75 watch cases, with only 50 assembled.
Yep, that you have read correctly. I have never been bothered about sharing the secrets, the places I source components, and so on, and this is not the first time I have showed the cost.
It would get cheaper if I continued the model, as tooling is factored in.
It was a beer mat budget I made in the first place, and how wrong I was!

Over time, I will perfect the CD1 and SD1, and it will be the best watch in the price point, period. That is not a goal or a plan, that is the mission.
I do not expect to sell many, never did, until years down the track, but I do realize that to succeed, I need a retail ready watch, and take it retail. The forums are very important for sure, and I understand the need for them, and customer service above and beyond, but at the price, I suspect retail is where my sales will mostly be.

Aegir wrote:
Well the A10 looked like a better alternative to me, as the finish was just so much nicer than the 2892. At the same time, ETA knocked me back as a direct customer, being far too small.
I looked at my options, and of course there was movement brokers, and while they charged a bit extra, is was close enough to cost price from ETA, given the fact I am only making a few watches here and there at this time. After some thought, I figured that what 2892 finish I provide today, might not be the same tomorrow, as I can only get what the broker has.
I did plan of top grade, so when I place an order, and he only has the standard ones, what then?
Cant charge the same, and cant send out all sorts of different grades. Would be a mess.

So I emailed Soprod and they agreed to deal direct with me, even for a small order.
I also met with them at Basel, and I just liked them! So Soprod it was.
long term aim for Aegir is to make cases in Australia, then in-house. Followed by each and every part.
Will take many years, but that is the goal.

The price is a hard market I will admit. So, then reason is simple, it costs $1300 AUD to make a CD2, give or take $5.
Then there is 30% to the ATO (tax office) then of the rest, is a 2 year warranty that is transferable. This by the way, does not include one cent of operating costs, of any type, it is merely the sum of its parts.
If I was a big outfit with thousands of watches, then the cost would likely be $400 or so per piece. Fact is, I spent close of 200K to make 75 watch cases, with only 50 assembled.
Yep, that you have read correctly. I have never been bothered about sharing the secrets, the places I source components, and so on, and this is not the first time I have showed the cost.
It would get cheaper if I continued the model, as tooling is factored in.
It was a beer mat budget I made in the first place, and how wrong I was!

Over time, I will perfect the CD1 and SD1, and it will be the best watch in the price point, period. That is not a goal or a plan, that is the mission.
I do not expect to sell many, never did, until years down the track, but I do realize that to succeed, I need a retail ready watch, and take it retail. The forums are very important for sure, and I understand the need for them, and customer service above and beyond, but at the price, I suspect retail is where my sales will mostly be.

The cost of the watch is inline with what you are saying. Soprod A10 seems to be a work horse. I know there are always costs of designing new products. Everyone that has one of the CD's does speaks highly of them. Retail is a good option but won't you need to have a lot stock to due that. Say you got with the likes of the Watch Hut out of the U.K. the stock you would need for that would be a lot higher,no?

The Forums like twitter or facebook is a tool. Forums are sometime fickle places you either get the ones that will call a watch junk or those that love them. The thing is if it is a good product at the end of the day most on the forum will accept a brand.

Ocean wrote:

Aegir wrote:
Well the A10 looked like a better alternative to me, as the finish was just so much nicer than the 2892. At the same time, ETA knocked me back as a direct customer, being far too small.
I looked at my options, and of course there was movement brokers, and while they charged a bit extra, is was close enough to cost price from ETA, given the fact I am only making a few watches here and there at this time. After some thought, I figured that what 2892 finish I provide today, might not be the same tomorrow, as I can only get what the broker has.
I did plan of top grade, so when I place an order, and he only has the standard ones, what then?
Cant charge the same, and cant send out all sorts of different grades. Would be a mess.

So I emailed Soprod and they agreed to deal direct with me, even for a small order.
I also met with them at Basel, and I just liked them! So Soprod it was.
long term aim for Aegir is to make cases in Australia, then in-house. Followed by each and every part.
Will take many years, but that is the goal.

The price is a hard market I will admit. So, then reason is simple, it costs $1300 AUD to make a CD2, give or take $5.
Then there is 30% to the ATO (tax office) then of the rest, is a 2 year warranty that is transferable. This by the way, does not include one cent of operating costs, of any type, it is merely the sum of its parts.
If I was a big outfit with thousands of watches, then the cost would likely be $400 or so per piece. Fact is, I spent close of 200K to make 75 watch cases, with only 50 assembled.
Yep, that you have read correctly. I have never been bothered about sharing the secrets, the places I source components, and so on, and this is not the first time I have showed the cost.
It would get cheaper if I continued the model, as tooling is factored in.
It was a beer mat budget I made in the first place, and how wrong I was!

Over time, I will perfect the CD1 and SD1, and it will be the best watch in the price point, period. That is not a goal or a plan, that is the mission.
I do not expect to sell many, never did, until years down the track, but I do realize that to succeed, I need a retail ready watch, and take it retail. The forums are very important for sure, and I understand the need for them, and customer service above and beyond, but at the price, I suspect retail is where my sales will mostly be.

The cost of the watch is inline with what you are saying. Soprod A10 seems to be a work horse. I know there are always costs of designing new products. Everyone that has one of the CD's does speaks highly of them. Retail is a good option but won't you need to have a lot stock to due that. Say you got with the likes of the Watch Hut out of the U.K. the stock you would need for that would be a lot higher,no?

The Forums like twitter or facebook is a tool. Forums are sometime fickle places you either get the ones that will call a watch junk or those that love them. The thing is if it is a good product at the end of the day most on the forum will accept a brand.

I have enjoyed the forums in general, and had a lot of help from one in particular, thedivewatchconnection.com

I think I understand the general forum reaction to price however. All joking aside, I believe it is a simple case of established brands that are in your subconsciousness as well, such as Rolex, Omega, etc, are acceptable on price for the most part, as they are in shops, have long histories in general, and you automatically accept it. Discussions on forums range over every aspect.
For Aegir is hard, because when it comes to forum watches, and by starting on the forums for a launch, I automatically fall into that pool, and the subconscious price that has been set, is $500 to $700.
It is like going out to buy a TV, and you see a brochure that has a nice one with all the bits you need for $1000, you automatically use that price now when you arrive at the shop when comparing. It does not matter too much where the TV is made to most, as your price has been fixed without you even realizing it.

Retail is where I am going, but I will be around the forums for many years to come, maybe not as a brand as such, if retail works out, but just as a contributing member, and sticking to the subject I like the most, and that is watchmaking, repairing and so on.
As for the stock needed, I plan to appear only in nice little boutiques and quirky shops in the beginning, not any online retailers

The CD-2 is a fantastic watch and the quality is excellent! Todd is top notch too!

A nice shot of the CD-2 that I took...wears great and it is very comfortable on the IsoFrane!

mrneddles wrote:Jesus Christ! Another wombat on the boards. Welcome. I have checked out your website and applaud your very purposeful watches, all with sensible case dimensions.

Tell us more about the Soprod movements and the lume treatment of your divers.

Here is a lume shot:



The Soprod A10 is a very nice movement and the one that came in my CD-2 was keeping very good time - +/- 5 sec per day.